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Although only a quick 40-minute ferry ride from Playa del Carmen, Cozumel couldn’t be more different than its cousins on the Riviera Maya. More than 95 percent of the island remains untouched beachfront, scraggly jungle, and carefully protected swamps and lagoons. Nearly all of Cozumel’s hotels, beach clubs and restaurants are clustered on the western (leeward) side of the island where the calm waters are better for swimming and diving.

San Miguel de Cozumel is the only town on the island and mainly serves as a debarking point for the hoards of cruise ships that help make Cozumel one of the Top 10 most-visited locations in the world. But when evening falls and the cruise ships set sail, Cozumel regains its peaceful Mayan vibe.

The best time to visit Cozumel is from Christmas to Easter. Remember that August through October is peak hurricane season in the Caribbean. Cozumel was slammed by hurricane Wilma in October 2005, but all damaged hotels and other tourist facilities have been renovated or rebuilt.

-- By Dave Roos

Cozumel lodging is divided into three hotel zones: in San Miguel proper, north of town and south of town. The best deals can be found in town, but most don’t have the service, style and amenities of some of the nicer places closer to the beach. Two exceptions are Hotel Flamingo and Hacienda San Miguel. The penthouse suite at the Flamingo sleeps six and offers ocean views from every room, including the full kitchen. At the handsome, colonial-style Hacienda San Miguel, every room has a kitchen, including stove and full-size refrigerator. For a fancier option within walking distance of San Miguel, try the Cozumel Palace.

North of town, the best choice is the Playa Azul Golf and Beach Hotel. This beautiful, boutique-style hotel has a nice stretch of beach for swimming, diving and snorkeling. The gorgeous rooms, many with ocean views, have been decorated with great attention to detail, and every evening, flower petal masterpieces await you. As a plus, all rooms come with unlimited free access to the world-class golf course at the Jack Nicklaus-designed Cozumel Country Club. For clean, simple rooms with reliable service at a great location, try the Sol Cabañas del Caribe.

The Presidente Intercontintental Cozumel Resort & SPA is the king of class on the southern hotel strip. Located right on the beach, the Intercontinental offers a breathtaking, secluded location, superior service, a kids club, three restaurants and an in-house diving outfitter. Another good southern choice is El Cid La Ceiba, where savvy divers take advantage of the hotel’s unlimited free tank policy. At the southernmost tip of the island’s western coast is the all-inclusive Iberostar Cozumel, where more than 300 rooms are strewn across a lush tropical landscape.

For the ultimate in quiet seclusion, head to the only hotel on Cozumel’s eastern (windward) coast, the eco-friendly Ventanas al Mar where in-room amenities like microwaves and refrigerators all run on solar power.

-- By Dave Roos

There are a few great family-run spots on the island for authentic Yucatecan specialties like cochinita pibíl, spiced pork slowly baked in a banana leaf, and queso relleno, a wheel of gouda or Edam cheese stuffed with ground pork or beef picadillo. El Turix serves up an excellent pollo pibíl (chicken instead of pork), La Choza is known for its mole rojo, and the homey Comida Casera Toñita offers savory whole fried fish and specialties like achiote-spiced pork chops.

A Cozumel dining institution is La Cabaña del Pescador, where the only item on the menu is boiled lobster. The crustaceans are remarkable – served only with butter and some simple sides – and the atmosphere is romantic, if you can get past the bibs.

Guido’s is a local favorite offering top-notch brick-oven pizza, homemade pasta, seasonal fresh fish, and a lethal sangria to wash it all down. The French Quarter is another solid international choice serving prime cut steaks, seafood and Cajun cuisine like a surprisingly authentic jambalaya and crawfish etouffée.

For a great early cup of coffee and a wide selection of Mexican pastries and fresh bread, don’t miss the Zermatt Bakery in downtown San Miguel.

-- By Dave Roos

Dive! Dive! Dive! Cozumel is home to more than 100 world-class dive sites for both scuba and snorkeling. If you plan to scuba dive, don’t forget to bring your certification and log book. The most popular dive spots are easily accessible and relatively shallow, but some of the less-traveled reefs can be technically difficult.

The most famous dive spot has to be Palancar reef, which is actually divided into three smaller dives: Palancar Horseshoe, Palancar Gardens and Palancar Caves. Palancar Gardens is best for beginners, since it’s a relatively shallow dive with tons of coral and marine life, but the real excitement comes with the deep crevices and coral “swim-through” caves of Palancar Caves, recommended for intermediate divers.

The next most popular dive sites are the Santa Rosa Wall, famous for its sponges and incredible depth, the San Francisco Reef, a shallow wall dive swarming with sea life, and the Yucab Reef, where you might spot some eels and lobster.

But the truth is that just about anywhere you hop into the water around Cozumel is going to be an unforgettable diving experience. You can’t take two steps in San Miguel without hitting a dive shop. Try to find one that will take you to less-popular, but equally fascinating spots where you can enjoy the majesty of the reefs without bumping into crowds fresh off the Love Boat. A two-tank dive should cost around $60.

Cozumel is also known for its beach clubs, semi-private stretches of beach outfitted with restaurants, bars, equipment rental, shady beachside palapas and all manner of tropical adventure activities. Beach clubs are free, but you are expected to have lunch or at least beers if you’re hanging out under their umbrellas.

Mr. Sancho’s beach club is a buzz of activity with tons of water sport equipment rentals, ATV and horse tours and more than 50 palapas lining a nice stretch of beach for swimming and snorkeling. Uvas is a chic beach club with an upscale vibe and a swinging nightlife. And Playa San Francisco is a beach club popular with the cruise ship crowd and local families on the weekends. Another standout is Playa Linda, located on a deserted stretch of beach. The waves here can get rough, so be careful when swimming.

The Chankanaab National Park is a wonderful place for snorkelers, shallow divers and just about anyone who appreciates the striking natural beauty of the Mexican Caribbean. Enjoy easy access to the ocean, wander twisting trails through sub-tropical gardens and check out Cozumel’s only cenote, a deep, water-filled limestone cave that connects to the sea. You can also swim with the dolphins at the park’s Dolphin Discovery center.

Deep-sea fishing is another big draw for Cozumel. Set out with a guide for once-in-a-lifetime catches like sailfish, marlin, swordfish and tarpon. The best season for fishing is late spring, and like the dive shops, fishing outfitters are easy to find in San Miguel.

For an off-the-beaten-path experience, rent a car and drive around to the eastern side of the island. There are dozens of secluded, near-deserted beaches perfect for a romantic afternoon picnic. But beware of swimming on windward beaches, because the strong currents and surf here can be extremely dangerous.

-- By Dave Roos

Cozumel cools down at night, when the cruise ships pull away and the scene feels like a small Mexican beach town. That’s not to say that Cozumel goes to sleep at 9:30 p.m. There’s enough live music, dancing, drinking and flirting to keep you going for a few hours.

If you’re in town for Spring Break, or are looking for a similar full-throttle partying experience, Cozumel won’t disappoint. In San Miguel you’ll find local branches of the popular franchises Carlos 'n Charlie's, El Shrimp Bucket, Señor Frog's and Fat Tuesdays, where the frozen daiquiris and yards of Corona keep the young (and loud) crowd well-fueled and well on their way to a record-breaking hangover.

For dancing, the oldest club in town is also the best. The Neptune Dance club has been showing folks a good time with its huge dance floor and laser light show for decades. For hot Latin and Caribbean beats, head over to Joe’s Lobster House. For gourmet tapas, well-mixed cocktails and a decidedly chill crowd, go to Uvas beach club, which transforms at night into a cool lounge, sometimes with live music.

If you’re missing the arctic blast of air conditioning and the companionship of your favorite Hollywood stars, grab a flick at the Cinépolis multiplex movie theater. Most films are in English with Spanish subtitles.

-- By Dave Roos

Like most touristy beach locales, shopping in Cozumel is mostly T-shirts, knick-knacks and cheap silver jewelry. There’s a small handicraft market in San Miguel, where you can find regional Mexican crafts of mixed quality. Los Cinco Soles and Viva México are two shops along the main strip in San Miguel that sell higher end folk art at reasonable prices.

-- By Dave Roos

Think tropical for this island just off the Cancún coast. During the months of December and January, the weather is very pleasant during the day, but the evenings can get a bit chilly (chilly for the tropics: mid-60s), so bring something long-sleeved. The summers are hot and humid, and May through September is the rainy season. However, rains are short, tropical, and quite refreshing.

Best time to go: November through April (high 87°, low 68°)

Hurricane season: September through November

Average annual temperature: 80 degrees

Hottest months: June, July, August

Coolest months: December, January, February

--By Judy Jenner